Kodak Flexicolor RA Bleach Replenisher NR:.1.2L of Kodak Flexicolor LORR Developer / Starter:.Kit to mix 5L of Kodak Flexicolor LU LORR Developer Replenisher:.You’ll be supporting the fine folks at the Film Photography Project!Īs you will not be using a kit, you have to purchase a number of different things.The kit developer is more contrasty if you like that sort of thing.Just three baths and one wash and you’re done. Your cost of development (after the initial outlay) goes down.I’ll update over time as I have my own experience to add going forward with this process. The results may simply be less than optimal. It deteriorates over time, so you’re not going to lose your pictures. That said, C-41 developer doesn’t just go like XTol. If you are really concerned about quality on older chemistry, you can buy control strips, develop them in your chemistry and use a densitometer on the control strip to determine how good your chemistry is. People on the internet have claimed keeping it longer than a year with no degradation in quality. Kodak says you can keep developer replenisher for 6 weeks.Separate Bleach/Fix process does result in more shadow detail, more highlight detail, and sharper negatives compared to using a Blix.The developer is less contrasty than the kit developers, giving you more detail to work with. Kodak Flexicolor chemicals are considered to be the best you can get.Why bother with Kodak Flexicolor instead of the kit? Please read all safety and MSDS specification sheets for any chemicals that you purchase for this and other chemical processes that you may decide to undertake. This post is about conducting a chemical process which could cause harm to you and others if not conducted appropriately. Over the past two years, I’ve learned a lot and now understand that Flexicolor developer is never stored at a working strength and that allows you to store it for longer.Īfter much research on-line, guidance from the people at the Film Photography Project on developing C-41, and my own trial and error, I am bringing you my guide to C-41 with Flexicolor at home.ĭISCLAIMER: I cannot be held responsible for anything that you do as a result of following any information in or linked from this post. The FPP kit claims that you can’t trust the kit chemistry after 7 days and so I got hung up on the idea that storing 5L of C-41 developer for any length of time would not be wise. That’s a lot of chemistry to mix and keep. In my reading on separate bleach and fixer, I had come across methodologies to use entirely Kodak Flexicolor chemistry, but the thing that held me back was you had to mix 5L of the developer at a time. Further, not using the blix meant that I was stockpiling blix chemistry packets. This proved to not be terribly sustainable as I found myself paying $20.99 for C-41 Developer that according to the instructions is only good for up to 8 rolls of 135mm at 36 exposures. I found that I could use Kodak Flexicolor bleach and fixer with the developer from the Film Photography Project kit. I began immediately to work on figuring out how to get a separate bleach and fixer so as to eliminate Blix from my process. As I shoot film with the intention of getting the most out of it, this bothered me. Blix was really designed for RA-4 and when you use it in C-41, it causes your images to lose shadow detail and highlights. After getting comfortable with this kit, I started reading about C-41 online and found out that Blix (very common in the kits) isn’t really the best stuff to use in the C-41 process. When I first got started doing C-41 at home, I used the Film Photography Project C-41 kit. This article will talk about how to do C-41 using Kodak’s Flexicolor kit! If you have a safe place to do this and are used to working with photo chemistry, being able to do C-41 (and E-6) are well within your reach. I wasn’t really sure what would happen, but overall I’m pleased with the results.Īnd be sure to check out our other article on developing black and white film if you want to learn the basics or need a refresher course.Developing color film at home is not as hard as some people make it out to be. The first two were Lomography Color 100 in my Holga and the third was Fujifilm Superia in my Canon Sure Shot. I developed three rolls in Kodak HC 110 dilution B (find on Amazon). So I knew I’d be experimenting…especially with how long to develop. There is some information out there, but not a ton. But usually cross-processing refers to C41 film developed in E6 chemicals (or vice versa). Technically, this process is called cross-processing. What happens when you develop color (C41) film in black and white chemicals? If you click on a link and make a purchase, Shoot It With Film may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.
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